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Guide to Sustainable Fibers:

Agricultural Fibers

Agricultural fibers are any type of plant or animal that is raised as a crop for the purpose of growing fibers for textile manufacture.  This includes: cotton, hemp, linen, jute, flax, wool, cashmere, leather and all variations of cotton.  The production of these fibers often relies heavily on the use of pesticides and other chemicals; abundant water use is also an issue.  Genetically modified cotton crops are raised as an alternative to harsh pesticide use, though genetically modified (GM) cotton does not eliminate the use of pesticides and weed killers and has a damaging effect on biodiversity.  Hemp grows in abundance without the use of pesticides, though some farms may utilize them.  Jute and flax are smaller crops, and therefore do not have the global impact that cotton does.  However, they too solicit the use of pesticides and fertilizers to the same extent that hemp requires them.

  • Pesticide Use

Pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are harmful for the environment and the people who interact with them.  Many of the pesticides used in agricultural crops are thought to be carcinogenic, and pose other health risks.  According to the World Health Organization, 20,000 deaths result from pesticide poisoning in third world countries each year.

  • Organic Farming

Organic Agricultural crops rely on crop rotation and natural substance for their growth and success.  Because these crops do not rely on fertilizers or use GM seeds, they usually require more water.  Irrigation is typically relied on for the water supply of crops, but irrigation can damage ecosystems and drain underground water supply.  To combat the diminishing potable supply, wastewater recycling programs are being developed and implemented for irrigation and manufacturing purposes.

Alternative Plant Fibers

Alternative plant fibers classify any fiber that comes from a plant that is not agriculturally produced.  This includes fibers such as nettle, kapok, milkweed, pina, raffia, sunn, aloe, and abaca.  These fibers can be considered sustainable because they are produced in very small quantities, and generally do not rely on the use of pesticides.  They are often materials that are harvested by small communities and either sold to mills, or made into textiles through a hand loom process that supports the local community and biodiversity.  These fibers are typically difficult to source, but support the growth of artisan work and slow fashion.

Silk

Silk is a protein fiber that comes from an animal, or rather, an insect.   Traditionally, domesticated silk worms are boiled alive at the metamorphosis stage in order to preserve the long strand of their cocoon fiber in order to produce silk fiber.  Processing the silk fiber requires several steps of chemical baths, including a bleaching and degumming process.  These processes are toxic for people working directly with the fiber, and create pollutants that contaminate waterways as well as the atmosphere.  Alternatively, silk fiber can be harvested from the broken cocoon of the silk worm.

A more sustainable and "animal friendly" option is ahimsa or peace silk, where the silk worms are allowed to emerge as moths before the cocoon is used as fiber.  In the production of peace silk, the degumming process and bleaching processes are altered to be less toxic and less polluting.  Peace silk is not often treated with chemical dyes; instead, natural dyes are preferred.  There are many variations of peace silk; all are sustainable or eco-friendly in slightly different ways.  All silk is biodegradable.

Animal Fibers

Animal fibers categorize any wool that is sheered from an animal to be spun into yarn for use in a textile.  Wool can vary in strength, color, texture, weight, and quality depending on what animal it comes from, as well as what part of the animal it comes from.  Wool can be sheered from: camel, alpaca, angora rabbit, guanaco, goat, llama, yak, quivit, vicuna, and many more animals. 

  • Animal Treatment

In the traditional manufacture of wool and the farming of sheep for their fiber, the animals are kept in large herds on small plots of land.  This generally leads to overgrazing of the fields, which leaves the sheep more susceptible to disease and infection.  To counter this, pesticides and vaccinations are used that are moderately toxic to humans, amphibians, birds, and the sheep.  Some of the pesticides used are water-soluble and can pollute streams, ground water, and drinking water from runoff. 

  • Organic Alternatives

When an animal sheered for its wool is not injected with any hormones, and feeds on organic substances (either grain or grasses not treated with pesticides) the product is considered organic.  Organic wool also refers to the process of making the sheered wool fiber into a spun yarn and textile. In order to be considered organic, the process does not include the typical bleaching and chemical processing.  The organic manufacture of wool is very sustainable, but in order to comply with certification programs it is typically on a relatively small scale.

Synthetic Fibers

Synthetic fibers include materials such as polyester.  These are fabrics or fibers that are manmade from petrochemicals.  They are processed through a series of highly toxic chemical processes and will not decompose naturally.  The only instance that synthetic fibers are considered sustainable is if they are recycled.  Teijin was the first mill to ever produce recycled polyester.  Today, the quality of this recycled polyester is equivalent to or higher than the quality of virgin fiber.  Recycled synthetic fabrics can also come from discarded products such as soda bottles.

By-Products

By-products generally categorize a broad spectrum of fibers that are salvaged from industrial, agricultural, or commercial production.  These fibers often fall into the category of rayon.  Two aspects define by-products; the first is its origin, the second is the type of processing it undergoes to become a textile.   By-product fibers that are rayon processed are regenerated cellulosic fibers.  However, regenerated cellulosic fibers can also be from an alternative plant source or cultivated for the purpose of creating rayon.  By-product fibers that are rayon processed include: Lenpur™ and Cupro.  Azlon fibers are by-products of industrial food production that undergo a different type of processing.  Soy milk protein fibers are the most common in this category.  These proteins are subjected to enzymatic treatments and a wet spinning process to create a filament.

Rayon Processing

Rayon is a large category of fibers that is always growing.  There are four primary types of rayon processes: Viscose, Lyocell, Saponified (Acetate), and Cuprammonium — of which viscose is the most common.  Rayon processing typically utilizes harsh chemical solvents to process the fiber, which can lead to pollution and high-energy consumption.  Most of the bamboo product on the market, while still sourced from a natural and renewable source, is actually processed as rayon.  A more sustainable version of rayon processing is implemented in the production of Lyocell, Tencel™, and Modal™.  These processes have been optimized to reduce toxic by-products.  Regenerated cellulosic fibers are also biodegradable.


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Abaca

An alternative plant fiber source, abaca is of the bast family. It is stiff; therefore it is often blended with soft fibers to make textiles. Using abaca promotes biodiversity by decreasing the dependency on mass agricultural crops. Since it is a natural fiber, it is biodegradable.

Algae

See Alginate.

Alginate

Alginate, a biopolymer extracted from seaweed, is an alternative plant fiber. It is a soft fiber that is often blended with other fibers to improve its resilience. It is nutrient-rich and has antibacterial qualities. Although its processing produces chemical pollutants, it is biodegradable. The most common fabric made from alginate is seacell, which is a blend of lyocell and seaweed.

Aloe

Aloe is an alternative plant fiber whose matter is taken from its leaf. Aloe is soft and prevents chaffing when incorporated in textiles through micro-encapsulation.

Alpaca

Alpaca is an animal fiber, which falls under the wool category. The fibers range from very fine to coarse. Royal alpaca and baby alpaca are among the fine variations. It is available is a large array of natural colors so it may not require additional dye processing. The scouring process is not always needed when treating alpaca because it does not have the lanolin oils of lamb's wool. Scouring is the process of cleaning dirt and oils from the fibers using hot water and detergents; eliminating scouring reduces the chemicals, water and energy used in this fiber's processing. It is biodegradable and recyclable like other wools. As an alternative fiber source, alpaca can be a more sustainable option then lamb's wool.

Angora

An animal fiber, angora is a type of wool; it is soft and extra fine. Angora is sheered from angora rabbit, and spun into yarns. Angora fiber is available in small quantities, reducing the dependency on large-scale wool farming, it is biodegradable, and because it can be found in different colors it may not require additional dying. Scouring is not generally needed for angora because it lacks the lanolin oils of lamb's wool. Scouring is the process of cleaning dirt and oils from the fibers using hot water and detergents; eliminating scouring reduces the chemicals, water and energy used in this fiber's processing.

Azlon

Azlon is a manufactured fiber made from regenerated, naturally occurring proteins. See Soy and Milk fiber.

Bamboo

Most bamboo found on the market is a by-product of bamboo cultivation. It is harvested from the stalk of the fast growing bamboo grass and then processed viscously in a chemical bath of caustic soda and lye. This process is highly toxic and requires a lot of energy. Bamboo fabric is resilient, naturally antimicrobial, blocks UV rays, and is thermodynamic. Bamboo grass is highly renewable, growing at a rapid rate. Bamboo fabric is biodegradable, though it has been known to contain harsh chemical residue due to low regulation standards. When sourcing bamboo, a better alternative is natural bamboo fiber, which is often found as a woven in a linen structure.

Bamboo (Natural)

Natural bamboo is an alternate processing to the viscose version. Its processing does not create toxic by-products as viscose baths do; rather, this fiber is taken directly from the bast, then boiled and steamed. These stiff, strong filaments are, therefore, usually coupled with softer fibers; in this type of mixture, the natural bamboo would form the core of the yarn with the softer fibers surrounding. Natural bamboo can also be found in variations with a hand similar to linen.

Bamboo Charcoal

Bamboo charcoal is a bamboo rayon fiber encapsulated with the carbon from burnt bamboo using nanotechnology. This process enhances the antimicrobial properties of the fiber. Also see Bamboo.

Banana

Banana is an alternative plant fiber that is part of the bast family. Banana is processed in a chemical dye bath of lye, which is very similar to viscose. The fiber quality is lustrous and soft, it can be blended with other fibers, woven for fabrics, and spun into yarns. It is biodegradable, and is an alternative to agricultural crops, though its viscose processing creates toxic pollutants.

Bemberg™

Bemberg is the trademark name for cuprammonium rayon. Also see Cuprammonium Rayon.

Biophyl™

Advansa's fabric Biophyl is made of PTT and Bio-PDO.

Cashmere

An animal fiber, cashmere comes from the cashmere goat and is a type of wool. It is fine, soft, and absorbent. It is cleaned and processed like standard wools, then spun into yarns for hand knits or textiles. Cashmere can be found in a variety of colors, so it may not require additional dying. The fiber is biodegradable and can be recycled unless it is blended in a high ratio with other fibers.

Chitosan

Chitosan is derived from chitin; a compound found in the shells of crustaceans, and is a by-product fiber. It is generally blended with viscose to create a fabric that is antimicrobial, totally biodegradable and has high moisture absorption. Swicofil AG makes a version called Crabyon.

Coir

Coir is a fiber harvested from the outer shell of a coconut. It is an alternative plant fiber and is cellulosic. Two variations of coir can be harvested. One is dark brown coir that is harvested from ripe coconuts, and the second is white coir, which is harvested from coconuts before they are ripe. White coir contains more cellulose than brown coir and is softer, but has less tenacity. Coir fiber is relatively waterproof and is resistant to damage by salt water. Its harvest supports the small trade of coir product and alleviates the reliance on mass agricultural crops.

Corn

See PLA and PDO.

Cotton Grass

Also called multi-headed bog cotton, cotton grass grows in and around peat bogs. It is an alternative plant fiber as well as a by-product of peat excavation.

Cotton, Cleaner

The Cleaner Cotton Campaign is an effort lead by the Sustainable Cotton Organization in California to reduce the environmental impact of cotton's cultivation and production. The seeds used are not genetically modified (non-GM) and the cultivation and processing uses 73% less chemicals than standard cotton. The cotton is not organic, but is a low-impact variety. It can be found under the trademarked name, Cleaner Cotton.

Cotton, Colored

Color-grown cotton is an agricultural fiber that is an alternative to standard cotton. The fiber comes from the seed, is usually grown organically, and requires less processing than other cottons because it doesn't need to be dyed. Colored cotton can be found in a variety of colors, including tan, green, yellow, red, pink, brown, and white. It is soft, resilient and absorbent, as well as biodegradable.

Cotton, Organic

For cotton to be considered organic, it must be farmed without the use of pesticides, synthetic chemical fertilizers, and genetically engineered seeds. Organic cotton must be third-party certified in order to meet rigorous production standards, which include manufacturing as well as agricultural methods. Organic cotton is typically more expensive due to lower crop yields, as compared to industrial cotton. Organic cotton fibers are often shorter as well. It is non-polluting, non-toxic, biodegradable, and can be recycled.

Cotton, Pima/Supima

Pima cotton, like all cotton, is an agricultural fiber that comes from its seed. Pima cotton is of particularly high quality as the fiber length is longer then non-pima cotton, though it is not necessarily organic. Supima is a trademarked name for pima cotton grown in the U.S. Supima is the only regulated pima cotton that guarantees authenticity and 100% pure, non-blended fiber. It is both biodegradable and recyclable.

Cotton, Recycled

Recycled cotton refers to fabric or product that has been regenerated for a second life cycle. The source of this cotton can be cast-off material salvaged from the weaving and spinning process, scrap from clothing production, or post-consumer discarded material.

Cotton, Transitional Organic

In order for conventional cotton farms to become organically certified, they must go through a three year cleansing process in order to rid the soil of harsh chemical fertilizers. Cotton that is within this stage of obtaining certification is classified as "Transitional Organic Cotton" or "Transitional Cotton".

Crabyon

Crabyon is the trademarked name of a blend of chitosan and viscose fibers by Swicofil AG. See Chitosan and Viscose.

Cultivated Wood

This class of fibers refers to rayon created from cellulose that is a by-product of logging in which the source of the fibers is cultivated forests rather than timber from unnatural deforestation. These fibers are biodegradable. See Lenpur and Rayon.

Cuprammonium Rayon

Developed in 1890, cuprammonium rayon is made by spinning cellulose fiber in a solution of copper and ammonia. It has a very similar hand to silk. It is recognizable under the trademark Bemberg.

Cupro

Cupro is a by-product of the industrial harvest of cotton. Cupro is a lustrous textile, commonly used as a lining fabric. Cellulosic matter from the cotton gin is processed using the cuprammonium method of rayon textile production. Cupro is biodegradable. See Cuprammonium Rayon.

Ecosensor™

Ecosensor is a synthetic fiber, it is a polyester fabric made from recycled polyester textiles and PET bottles. Ecosensor is a trademark of AsahiKASEI Fibers Corporation. It is not biodegradable, but can be recycled.

Ecowool

Ecowool is an animal fiber; it is pure merino lamb's wool from New Zealand, which is softer and lighter than traditional wool. It is machine washable and easy to care for. The ease in caring for and cleaning of this type of wool helps to reduce the use of dry cleaning, a practice that is known to use toxic chemicals affecting the dry cleaners, the wearer, and the environment. See Wool.

Flax

An agricultural crop fiber, flax belongs to the bast family. It is a stiff and resilient fiber used for the production of linen. Flax requires minimal use of pesticides and relies only on rainfall for irrigation. It can be found in certified organic varieties, however, flax crops are often close to, or do, comply with organic standards, whether or not they are certified. Flax fibers are biodegradable, but are not recyclable at this time.

Goat

An animal protein fiber, goat is a general categorization for several types of wool. Some species include angora and cashmere. They have been domesticated for the purpose of harvesting their fibers annually. Goat fibers are available in a variety of colors, textures, and qualities. Processing of these fibers varies. Goat fiber is biodegradable and recyclable in high ratio blends.

Guanaco

An animal that is closely related to the llama, the guanaco produces very high quality wool. Its staple fibers are medium to long. As an alternative fiber option, the use of guanaco lessens the consumption of mass produced wools, promoting biodiversity. Like all natural fibers, guanaco is fully biodegradable.

Hemp

Hemp is an extremely fast growing agricultural crop that can yield more fiber per acre then any other crop. Unlike cotton crops, which drain the soil of its nutrients, hemp reconditions it, allowing for constant rejuvenation. Hemp is often grown without use of pesticides, though it is not always categorized as organic. Hemp is a resilient fiber that promotes biodiversity, soil quality, and the reduces the use of pesticides--it is also biodegradable.

Hemp, Organic

Organic hemp is hemp that is grown without the use of any pesticides or herbicides. See Hemp.

High-wet-modulus rayon

HWM or high wet modulus rayon is a modified viscose rayon; it is a process and does not specify a fiber source. HWM rayon has the added quality of machine washability and higher tenacity. Like cotton, it can be mercerized for increased luster. HWM rayon process is used for Modal, a trademark name by Lenzing.

Huarizo

A huarizo is a cross between a llama and an alpaca. Its fiber is comparable to the fibers from both species. See Llama and Alpaca.

Ingeo™

Ingeo is a trademarked PLA fiber from Natureworks LLC. See Polylactic Acid/PLA.

Jute

An agricultural fiber that is part of the bast fiber family, jute is commonly used to make burlap. Jute is one of the most inexpensive materials in the world to produce (cotton being the least). Like coir, jute can be harvested in white and brown variations and is a lignocellulosic fiber. Tossa jute is an African variation that is softer and silkier then white jute. It is biodegradable and its use promotes biodiversity.

Khadi

Khadi is a hand woven cloth made traditionally in India. It is sustainable due to its low energy consumption, and because it supports a traditional craft. It is most often composed of cotton and sometimes a blend of silk. Khadi describes the handloom weave and content of the material. It is often lightweight and comes in an array of colors and patterns.

Khadi Silk

Khadi cloth made of 100% silk. See Khadi.

Lamb's Wool

Lamb's wool is a general term for wool shorn from a sheep. There are more specific names and qualities depending on the specific species. See Wool.

Lenpur™

Lenpur is a trademark of Teximpro. It is a cultivated wood fiber made from the cellulose of Canadian Silver Fir trees. During the pruning process, only certain parts of the branches are harvested for use in Lenpur. The wood pulp is treated in a rayon process that uses less harsh chemicals, creating a fiber which retains many properties of the wood and is more absorbent. See Cultivated Wood and Lyocell.

Lenzing FR™

Lenzing FR is a Lenzing trademarked viscose cellulous fiber with the added ability to be "flame resistant".

Lenzing Viscose™

Lenzing Viscose is a lyocell produced by Lenzing AG. See Lyocell.

Linen

See Flax.

Linen, Organic

Organic linen is made from flax crops that have not been treated with any herbicides or pesticides. See Flax.

Llama

Llama is an animal fiber that is a type of wool. The wool from llama has a soft hand and, like alpaca, has a higher absorbency than standard wool. It is biodegradable and comes in an array of colors, so it may not require additional dying. See Alpaca.

Lyocell

Lyocell is a type of rayon fiber produced specifically from the cellulose of trees. The wood pulp is subjected to an organic solvent spinning process. Lyocell is biodegradable. Its most common trademark is Tencel, produced by Lenzing.

Merino

Merino is the most popular of all wool fibers and ranges from fine to course depending on the area of the animal from which the fiber is shorn. Like cotton, it can be produced with or without the use of chemicals. Eco-friendly merino can be certified organic, is processed without bleach, and practices fair treatment of merino sheep. Merino is a biodegradable and recyclable fiber.

Merino, Organic

Organic merino is from merino sheep that are raised according to the following guidelines: no fertilizers or synthetic pesticides can be used on the pastures, no medicines such as growth hormones can be given to the animals and the feedstock for the animals must be organic. The use of organic merino supports animal health, human health, and lowers pollution in water systems. Organic merino is biodegradable and recyclable. See Merino.

MicroModal AIR™

Micro Modal AIR is the finest and softest of all Modal fibers trademarked by Lenzing. Micro Modal AIR's use is focused on knitwear applications. It goes through an additional fiber process to make it even lighter and softer than MicroModal. See Modal™ and MicroModal™.

MicroModal™

A trademark of Lenzing AG, MicroModal is specially adapted version of Modal for use in lingerie. Its filaments are finer and lighter than standard Modal and blend well with luxurious fibers such as cashmere, silk, and organic cotton. See Modal™.

Milk Protein/Casein

Milk protein is an azlon fiber and by-product of the dairy industry. It uses dewatered skim milk, which is made into fabrics through a wet spinning process. Milk protein fiber technology was first invented in the 1930's and continues to be improved. Casein or milk protein fiber is Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified. It has anti-bacterial properties, great dyeability and a silky soft luster. It is considered ideal for undergarments due to its absorption qualities. It utilizes what would become industrial waste to create luxurious fiber and is biodegradable.

Milkweed

Milkweed is an alternative plant fiber. Under the general name milkweed, 140 variable species exist. Its fibers have superior insulating qualities, and can be used in place of down feathers or kapok. Some species of milkweed produce bast fibers that are applicable in the creation of various types of cording. It is biodegradable and its use promotes biodiversity.

Modal™

Modal is a high-wet-modulus rayon that is processed to have a similar character to cotton. It is made from beech wood pulp, and the viscose processing has been optimized to achieve a high recovery rate of its by-products. It is biodegradable.

Mohair

Mohair is an animal fiber and wool that comes from the angora goat and is one of the oldest textile fibers in use. It is very durable, flame resistant, and has good wicking properties. It is an alternative fiber source that promotes biodiversity and is also biodegradable.

Natural Rubber Elastodiene

Natural rubber elastodiene is elastic made from natural polymers.

Nettle

Nettle is an alternative plant fiber that is part of the bast family. There are many different kinds of nettles, but generally, they are considered a weed and are resistant to pests. The fiber produced is stronger than cotton, finer than hemp, soft and fire retardant. Nettle is also known as aloo. It is biodegradable and its use promotes biodiversity.

Nylon Flycool™

A trademark of Grandteck Enterprise, Nylong Flycool is a synthetic blend of polyester and nylon that has the added benefit of keeping the body feeling cool. This technology is not sustainable, but it is sometimes blended with recycled components.

Nylon, Recycled

Only recently did the technology for recycling nylon become applicable to textiles. Patagonia was one of the first to utilize it in their clothing. Recycling nylon reduces the strain on natural resources by salvaging waste-bound nylon rather than using newly sourced petro-chemicals. It also reduces non-biodegradable waste.

Nylon/Polyamide

Nylon is the generic term for the family of synthetic polymers, polyamides. Nylon is used in many applications from toothbrush bristles to women's stockings. It is not considered sustainable unless it has been recycled. Most often it is blended with sustainable fibers to make a partially sustainable fabric. It is not biodegradable, but it can be recycled.

PDO

Propanedoil (PDO) is a half-synthetic fiber made from naturally occurring polymers that are by-products of bio-diesel production. It is an alternative to polyester. When made into fabric, it is generally used in conjunction with polyester, offsetting reliance on petro-chemicals while offering a high performance textile. The process of creating this fiber is sustainable because it is renewably sourced. See Bio-Phyl and Sorona.

Pearl

Pearl is an alternative fiber source, and a mineral by-product of pearls. Pearl fiber fabric can reduce the risk of infection and inflammation. It blocks direct UV rays and manages moisture on the skin. Pearl mineral fibers are difficult to source, rare, and expensive.

Pina

An alternative fiber that is stripped from the leaves of pineapple, pina is most often blended with silk, polyester, or other fibers to create a lightweight and luxurious cloth that has similar qualities to linen. Pina is often undyed and is a white or off-white color, which is an inherent quality in its low processing requirements. It is biodegradable, and its use promotes biodiversity.

Polyester

A synthetic material, polyester fabric most commonly refers to polyethylene terephthalate or PET. Some polyester is biodegradable, though this does not necessarily make it sustainable. Recent technology has allowed for the recycling polyester fabrics and restoring them to virgin fiber quality. See Recycled Polyester

Polyester, Recycled

Recycled polyester was first put into use by Patagonia in the 1990's in conjunction with Teijin Limited, who produce a patented version called Eco Circle. Since then, recycled polyester has gained in popularity and there are, now, many patents for, and constructions of, recycled polyester. Similarly to its nylon counterpart, it reduces the strain on natural resources by salvaging waste-bound polyester rather than using newly sourced petro-chemicals. It also reduces non-biodegradable waste.

Polylactic Acid/PLA

PLA is a half-synthetic, chemically produced fiber that is made from lactic acid, which comes from the fermentation of sugars that naturally occur in annual crops such as corn and sugar beets. The most common trademark for PLA is from Natureworks LLC. Their corn based PLA fiber is known as Ingeo.

ProModal™

ProModal is the blend of Lenzing's Tencel™ and Modal™. It is a trademark of Lenzing AG. Also see Tencel and Modal.

Ramie

Ramie is an alternative fiber of the bast quality in the nettle family. Ramie has limited application as a textile because it requires significant chemical processing in order to be woven or knitted. Due to its strength (even when wet), the most common application is as thread or packaging material. Therefore, it is usually blended with other, finer fibers, to add strength to the fabric or yarn. It is a natural fiber, but it is not recyclable.

Rayon

Is the generic term for manmade textiles composed of regenerated cellulose treated with varying chemical solutions to create filaments. Although rayon is often used in lieu of viscose, it is actually an umbrella term for several sub-categories of processes: viscose, cuprammonium, lyocell, and saponified (acetate). These fibers are only half-synthetic because they are made from naturally occurring polymers, and are biodegradable.

Repreve Nylon™

Repreve Nylon is the trademark name for recycled nylon by the company Unifi. Also see Recycled Nylon.

Repreve Polyester™

Repreve Polyester is the trademark name for recycled polyester by the company Unifi. Also see Recycled Polyester.

Sasawashi

Sasawashi is an organic fabric made from a combination of the Japanese paper washi and the leaves of the Japanese herb. In order to transform Sasawashi paper into fabric, the flakes from the kumazasa plant are blended into the washi, twisted into yarns, and finally the yarns are woven together to create the finished material. Sasawashi, which resembles linen, is a durable, absorbent, and breathable material also known for its antibacterial and deodorizing qualities.

Seacell Active™

Seacell Active is a version of Seacell with silver infused into its fibers. The addition of silver gives the fabric enhanced anti-microbial, anti-bacterial and odor reducing properties.

Seacell Pure™

Seacell Pure is an enhanced version of Seacell.

Seacell™

Seacell is a blend of lyocell and seaweed (5%). This fiber is considered to be ideal for undergarments due to its naturally soft hand and anti-bacterial qualities. It is produced by Zimmer AG and is the most common form of Algae/Seaweed in a fabric. Also see: Algae/Alginate.

Silk

The traditional process of harvesting silk fiber consists of many domesticated silk worms spinning cocoons, and after the cocoons are harvested, the worms are boiled alive in order to preserve the entire spun cocoon. After the moth's death, a harsh degumming process is used to clean and bleach the fabric. The process is not very sustainable, though it is a natural fiber and therefore biodegradable.

Silk, Ahimsa (Peace Silk)

Silk worms make ahimsa silk; a protein fiber that comes from the cocoon spinning process. It can be as lustrous as regular silk, but because the silk worm is allowed to break free from its cocoon, the fibers are shorter then regular silk, which is created by boiling the silk worm alive to preserve the longer fiber. Bleaching and degumming processes are not used in the treatment of peace silk; instead it is processed with non-toxic chemicals and natural processes to reduce waste. Peace silk is also biodegradable.

Silk, Eri

An animal protein fiber that is produced by the "Philosamia Ricini" silk worm. Eri silk follows the guidelines of peace silk processes. It is a fine lustrous fiber that is biodegradable and seldom processed with harsh dyes or chemicals. See Ahmisa Silk (Peace Silk).

Silk, Matka

Usually made in India, matka silk is comprised of 50% peace silk and 50% industrial silk. In matka silk, the weft is made of peace silk and the warp is made of industrial silk fiber. It is lustrous and strong like other silks, and it promotes to use of peace silk and sustainable processes. Matka silk, like all natural fibers is biodegradable.

Silk, Muga

Muga silk is made from the silkworm "Antherea assamensis," which feeds on som and sualu leaves. Muga is known for its luster and glossy hand. Muga cannot be dyed or bleached, and therefore is always a golden yellow or golden brown color. Muga is also very durable, and will last for many lifetimes.

Silk, Natural (Tussah)

Tussah silk, also called wild silk, or natural silk comes from wild silkworms that live in the forest or jungle. The fiber from their cocoon is harvested after the moth has emerged. This qualifies tussah as a peace silk as well. The fiber is generally an off-white or light brown color, but can be dyed almost any color. Because the silkworms are wild, the fiber can be considered organic, although it is not certifiable. Natural silk promotes biodiversity and fair treatment to animals. It is a biodegradable fiber.

Silk, Peace (Tussah Silk)

See Silk, Natural (Tussah).

Sisal

An agave plant and alternative plant fiber, sisal is primarily used in the production of rope and twine, and more recently has been used as an environmentally friendly alternative to materials such as asbestos and fiberglass for insulation. It is commonly mistaken to be a relative of hemp, which it is not. It is resilient and stiff, and as a naturally occurring fiber it is biodegradable.

Sorona™

Sorona, a trademark of DuPont, is a synthetic fiber made from 37% renewably sourced bio-polymers (PDO) and 63% polyester.

Soy

Soy fiber is an azlon fiber made from by-products of the fabrication of soy food products. The soy protein is liquefied and spun into long filaments. Soy has a very soft hand, low shrinkage percentage, and excellent colorfastness and is an ideal fiber to be close to the skin due to its high amino acid content. It is biodegradable, but not yet recyclable.

Straw

Straw is a by-product of cereal manufacturing. After the grain has been harvested, the straw is left. It can be used for bedding, as feed for animals, and to make hats, sandals, rope, paper, or various other items.

Tactel™

Tactel is a petro-chemical based synthetic fiber similar to nylon. It is an Invista trademark. This fiber is designed to reduce the need for harsh detergents, bleaches and repeated washings in its production. It also has a high dye affinity, reducing its need for auxiliary chemicals. Although nylon is not generally considered sustainable due to its reliance on oil, Tactel has been engineered to optimize efficiency in the production chain in order to reduce the use of auxiliaries, water and energy.

Tencel™

Tencel is the trademark name for a lyocell produced by Lenzing Fibers, using the cellulose from Eucalyptus trees, which can be planted on marginal lands and do not require irrigation or pesticides. Lenzing implements a 99.5% closed loop processing of this particular rayon, conserving water. The solvent used is a non-toxic alternative to viscose. Tencel fabric drapes well and is quick-drying.

Tilapia (Fish Leather)

The only supply of fish leather in the fabric library currently is sourced from Col De Mar. Their Tilapia is farm-raised for food, and the fish skin is harvested as a by-product for use in accessories or apparel. Tilapia is not a large fish, which means the skins are fairly small; the quality is similar to snakeskin. It comes in a variety of colors and finishes, and is sustainable because it utilizes skins that would otherwise be landfilled.

Triexta

Triexta is a new generic name for a synthetic fiber that uses a percentage of biopolymers (PDO) in combination with polyester. It is considered semi-sustainable due to its use of alternatives to petro-chemicals.

Vegetable Tanned Leather

Leather can be vegetable tanned by exclusively using tannins and other vegetable matter. Depending on the mix of chemicals and plant matter, a variety of colors can result. Vegetable tanned leather is environmentally friendly.

Vicuna

Vicuna is a type of wool. The vicuna is a member of the Camelid family and is indigenous to the Andean Highlands. The fiber is of one of the finest wool qualities and is naturally found in shades of white to reddish brown. This species was nearly extinct in the 1960's, but the population is now growing thanks to new regulations on hunting and the establishment of vicuna reservations in Peru. Despite these repopulation efforts, this fiber is still rare.

Viscose

Viscose is the caustic solution used in viscose rayon's production. Viscose and rayon are often used interchangeably to describe the same class of rayon fibers. Viscose is cellulose processed in two baths of sodium hydroxide, among other chemicals. This process is not generally considered sustainable, because of the polluting by-products it creates, although, there are cleaner varieties.

Wool

Wool is an animal protein fiber that is hollow and has a semi-coarse texture. It is considered a superior fiber due to its naturally thermodynamic, stain resistant, highly absorbent, insulating, wicking, elastic and self-extinguishing properties. Wool is a broad term applied to hair that is sheered from a mammal. Unlike fur or horsehair, it grows in staples and has a crimp.

Wool, Organic

Organic wool is typically produced from sheep that have been raised in accordance with guidelines including: no fertilizers or synthetic pesticides can be used on the pastures, no medicines such as growth hormones or parasite dipping can used on to the animals and the animal's feedstock must be organic. Truly organic wool is not treated with chemicals through the entire production process.from the farm to the end garment. See Wool.

Wool, Recycled

Recycled wool refers to either fabric or product that has been regenerated for a second life cycle. The source of this wool can be cast-off material salvaged from the weaving and spinning process, scrap from clothing production, or post-consumer discarded material.

Zari

Zari is fine silver or gold wire that is used in traditional Indian and Pakistani textiles. It is woven in with other fibers such as silk, to produce intricate designs, and enhance the textile.